While I will continue to use various types and brands of paint, there are none with which I'm familiar, and in current production, which I would unreservedly recommend. Just the other day I painted a three-tone camouflage pattern on a 1/72 F-105 Thunderchief. Valejo seems to dry out in the airbrush faster than Model Master. Sorry, I know there are solvent based paints still available, I was referring specifically to toluene and xylene. I find them very easy to spray, but they are not very durable and certain colors - flat black in particular, tend to dry with a chalky sort of finish that is very unpleasant and difficult to handle. I used Vallejo Air (technically I used AK Interactive's paint, but it's just Vallejo Air made for them in custom colors) on my last build and liked the way it sprayed overall, although it really liked to drytip--I had to clean the nozzle out after every couple minutes. Prehaps a good compromise would be a good vented paint booth and a half face respirator with a cartridge that is suitable specifically for the paint solvents. An example of this would be that of an illustrator’s airbrush, which is designed for use with ink, and therefore would not handle paint well. If you’re looking for a couple more options to play with, you can try these cheeky alternatives: Pastels: Excellent for tinting other liquids. - On the painting step, I made a mess of a gloss clear coat but found out why. Great stuff to airbrush. Enterchanging with Norfolk Southern. This is especially true for denser paints, like Tamiya, and when mixing in lacquer thinners (which many acrylics can handle). The Action Road  - Focus 1977-1983. However, most of the questions I get from modelers deal with the difficulties of shooting acrylic paints. Acrylic paint is also available in a variety of finishes or sheens ranging from glossy to flat. If I choose acrylics I'm less certain, though I have heard very good things about Testors. I just recently got back into modeling and started brushing with enamels, but I got an airbrush and it seems enamels are a lot harsher as far as breathing in when it comes to airbrushing and I am thinking about switching to acrylics. Acrylics are vastly easier to clean up and since their drying time is so low they're very convenient. I thought the EPA crackdown on these is why Floquil is no longer available. I use both Acrylic and Solvent based paint in my airbrush and both work very good. However, I still tend to mix a lot in the airbrush cup, especially since I use gravity-feed airbrushes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQmB6yvOJeE. If you feel confident after a while, try enamels. I like to work fast, and when I get some momentum going, I just keep going. I was blasting a large amount of paint, from too far away, and the paint was drying to an extent before landing. (The ModelFlex is supposedly airbrush ok as in the new bottle). Without thinning, clogging occurs. the harmful nature of the constituents in the solvents, such as toluene, xylenes and other petroleum based compounds. to use as thinner instead of buying each brands own thinner. My preferred brand is Gunze-Sangyo acrylics. Fear an Ignorant Man more than a Lion- Turkish proverb. Can you even get paints with these solvents in them anymore? If I could brush paint with, say, Citadel acrylics (the Warhammer paint), and airbrush with Gunze, I would be very happy. Enamel paints for models are generally excellent paints. Thinning is really pretty easy and it gets a wonderful finish, is really quite durable for acrylics, dries as quickly as Vallejo, and if properly thinned doesn't drytip at all. Both thinned with Gunze Mr. Oil Based/Enamel Paint. I guess I needed to thin it a bit more...I recently experimented with spraying Tamiya, since I have such a huge stock of it (but didn't want to bother with thinning before), and I frigging adore the way this stuff sprays. Scalecoat 1 and Humbrol enamel both use xylene. This works for me and I don't mind the steps, though I know others have developed a more efficient but successful approach. Been using Tamiya acrylics almost exclusively for about 3 years now with their proprietary X20A thinner. Like you, I recently started  using an airbrush. Regardless of the type of paint I use in my airbrush, I always clean it with lacquer thinner only, and likewise for brushes (natural bristle). Plus Tamiya acrylics smell kinda fruity. Totally agree, except I use Tamiya's lacquer thinner over the x20a. So, best to start out with the Manufacturer's thinner, even if a bit pricey, then experiment from there if desired. Gloss enamels can create beautifully shiny surfaces. For those having issues with the application of Aqua Enamel (or any acrylic) I can highly recommend the use of Floetrol. It came in a wide range of colours, was fast drying, and as durable as any lacquers or enamels. I only use solvent based paints in my airbrushes. Cheap respirators and an open window will suffice for acrylics. Do any of these paints use either of these two solvents? Still not comfortable trying to paint a locomotive yet. I researched lots of prior threads here and a fair number of YouTube videos and that got me over the hump. Easy to clean up and since their drying time is so low they 're very.. Sprays clear, I know there are basically three different types of paint on your.. Paints and how you can find it on the needle than a Lion- proverb... Choice but to use as a detail enhancer vs. acrylic paint unless you a! Hand brush, acrylic is the faster, more popular option these days, it! Seemed like a dark art to me backflush, then change the in! 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